S-twist twill weave

A twill weave whose diagonal ribs fall from upper left to lower right on the face—the left-hand or S-direction twill, softer in hand than standard Z-twist denim twill.

How to recognize it

S-twist twill ribs fall right to left on the face—mirror to Z-twist twill.

Ribs rising left to right indicate Z-twist. Chevron bands suggest chevron twill rather than single-direction S-twist.

Origin and history

Twill references define left-hand (S) twill as the mirror diagonal to right-hand Z-twist.[1] Weave diagrams document twill float direction in color-and-weave effects.[2] Britannica notes twill line direction in suiting classification.[3]

Japanese selvedge denim brands market S-twist twill for softer drape.[1] Tailors use S-twist for contrast pocketing and undercollars.[1] Reverse twill trade terms often overlap S-twist.[2]

Today S-twist twill weave appears in denim, suiting, and linings in cotton, wool, and polyester.[1][2] Pair S-twist denim with plain work shirts.[1] When ribs fall right to left—S-twist twill weave applies.[3]

Where it is used

Selvedge denim, contrast pocketing, soft-drape trousers, and lining cloth.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

S-twist denim breaks in with softer fold lines than Z-twist.[1] Contrast S-twist undercollar reads bespoke detail.[1]

How it differs

Z-twist twill is standard right-hand. Reverse twill is synonymous in trade. Twill is the parent.[1]

Expression and impression

S-twist twill reads artisanal, denim-nerd, and subtly technical. Left-hand twill reads Japanese selvedge.

Common questions

S-twist vs Z-twist twill? Mirror diagonal rib direction.[1]

Is S-twist softer? Often perceived as softer drape in denim.[1]

S-twist vs reverse twill? Often interchangeable terms.[1]

Sources

  1. Twill . Wikipedia Diagonal rib weave family including serge, gabardine, denim, and cavalry twill.
  2. File:Ornamentation of plain fabric by colours.png . Wikimedia Commons Diagram of plain-weave derivatives including twill color effects; CC BY-SA 4.0.
  3. Twill weave . Encyclopaedia Britannica Technical twill float logic, warp-faced versus weft-faced balance.

September 19, 2026