Reverse twill weave

A twill weave whose diagonal ribs run opposite the standard right-hand direction—left-hand or S-direction twill—used for contrast, lining effects, and chevron pattern bases.

How to recognize it

Reverse twill ribs fall left to right on the face—mirror to standard Z-twist twill.

Chevron meeting points suggest chevron twill or herringbone. Balanced denim twill may be either direction.

Origin and history

Twill weave references distinguish right-hand (Z) and left-hand (S) diagonal rib direction.[1] Herringbone pattern articles show reverse twill meeting to form chevrons.[2] Commons herringbone diagrams illustrate twill direction reversal.[3]

Tailors alternate twill direction in pockets and lapels for subtle contrast.[1] Japanese denim mills label left-hand twill for softer drape.[1] Herringbone systematically reverses twill blocks.[2]

Today reverse twill weave appears in suiting, denim, and coatings in wool, cotton, and polyester.[1][2] Pair reverse-twill linings with satin jacket faces.[2] When diagonal ribs run opposite standard Z-twist—reverse twill weave applies.[3]

Where it is used

Suit linings, denim variants, chevron-base coatings, and contrast pocketing.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Use reverse twill as subtle interior contrast.[1] Left-hand denim reads softer than right-hand.[1]

How it differs

Z-twist twill is standard right-hand. Chevron twill reverses direction in bands. Herringbone is systematic reversal.[1]

Expression and impression

Reverse twill reads technical, subtle, and tailoring-literate. Contrast reverse twill reads couture lining detail.

Common questions

Reverse twill vs herringbone? Herringbone alternates blocks; reverse twill is one consistent direction.[2]

Does twill direction matter? Affects drape, shine, and pattern meeting.[1]

Reverse twill vs S-twist twill? Often synonymous for left-hand twill.[1]

Sources

  1. Twill . Wikipedia Diagonal rib weave family including serge, gabardine, denim, and cavalry twill.
  2. Herringbone pattern . Wikipedia Reversed twill chevrons related to chevron and reverse twill structures.
  3. File:Herringbone.jpg . Wikimedia Commons Herringbone twill chevron diagram; public domain.

September 19, 2026