Broken twill weave

A twill weave that shifts float alignment to break the continuous diagonal line—forming checks like houndstooth and glen plaid rather than uninterrupted ribs.

How to recognize it

Broken twill interrupts the diagonal with offset floats—creating tooth or check shapes rather than continuous ribs.

Four-point teeth at larger scale indicate houndstooth. Chevron reversal suggests herringbone, not broken twill.

Origin and history

Houndstooth is the classic broken twill color-and-weave effect in Scottish suiting.[1] Commons houndstooth diagrams show discontinuous twill float geometry.[2] Twill references document broken twill as a variant that interrupts continuous diagonal lines.[3]

Lowland tweed mills wove broken twill for graphic checks without loud plaid crosses.[1] Dior and Chanel popularized oversized houndstooth broken twill in postwar suiting.[1] Glen plaid layers broken twill under windowpane overchecks.[2]

Today broken twill weave appears in coats, skirts, and suiting in wool and polyester.[1][2] Pair broken-twill blazers with solid plain trousers.[2] When diagonal ribs break into check teeth—not continuous lines—broken twill weave applies.[3]

Where it is used

Houndstooth coats, glen plaid suiting, graphic skirts, and broken-check blazers.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Broken twill reads as pattern from distance—scale check to body size.[2] Black-white broken twill reads graphic mod.[1]

How it differs

Houndstooth is a broken twill check pattern. Herringbone reverses twill direction. Twill has continuous ribs.[1]

Expression and impression

Broken twill reads graphic, heritage, and pattern-forward. Oversized broken twill reads runway bold.

Common questions

Broken twill vs houndstooth? Houndstooth is a broken twill check pattern.[1]

Broken twill vs herringbone? Herringbone reverses direction; broken twill shifts floats.[1]

Is broken twill woven or printed? Quality checks are woven—floats show on reverse.[2]

Sources

  1. Houndstooth . Wikipedia Broken twill check; pepita is the small-scale houndstooth suiting variant.
  2. File:Hundtandsrutor.png . Wikimedia Commons Houndstooth broken twill check diagram; public domain.
  3. Twill . Wikipedia Diagonal rib weave family including serge, gabardine, denim, and cavalry twill.

September 19, 2026