Plisse weave

A fine pleated fabric—usually cotton or rayon—created by chemical shrinkage or heat setting so accordion ridges lie permanently in the cloth without stitching.

How to recognize it

Plissé shows regular fine accordion pleats across the width. Pleats are set in the cloth—not woven puckers like seersucker or random crinkle.

Blistered raised cells indicate cloque or bubble weave. Irregular pebble suggests crinkle.

Origin and history

Plissé (plissé) names permanently pleated cloth from caustic shrinkage on cotton or rayon.[1] Museum and commons samples show fine accordion ridges.[2] Crepe) and plissé share crinkle-family finishing vocabulary.[3]

Fortuny patented fine pleating for silk gowns in the early twentieth century; modern plissé democratized the effect in daywear.[1] 1980s plissé skirts became office staples in synthetic fibers.[1] Chemical plissé differs from knife-pleated garment construction.[2]

Today plissé weave appears in skirts, dresses, and trim in cotton, polyester, and silk.[1][2] Pair plissé midi skirts with fitted plain knits.[2] When fine accordion pleats are heat- or chemical-set—plissé weave applies.[3]

Where it is used

Pleated skirts, cocktail dresses, trim panels, resort separates, and low-pack-volume travel pieces.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Let plissé volume sit at hip or hem—avoid bulky belts that crush pleats.[2] Metallic plissé reads evening; cotton plissé reads daytime.[1]

How it differs

Crinkle is irregular pebble. Cloque is blister weave. Knife pleats are sewn, not woven-set.[1]

Expression and impression

Plissé reads feminine, sculptural, and Art Deco. Fine plissé reads Fortuny-inspired romance.

Common questions

Plissé vs knife pleats? Plissé pleats are set in the cloth; knife pleats are sewn.[1]

Will plissé flatten? Quality plissé holds through wear.[2]

Plissé vs crinkle? Plissé has regular accordion ribs.[1]

Sources

  1. Plissé . Wikipedia Permanent pleating from chemical or heat-set crinkle on woven or knit cloth.
  2. File:Black pleated skirt.jpg . Wikimedia Commons Pleated skirt showing permanent plissé folds; CC BY-SA 3.0.
  3. Crepe (fabric) . Wikipedia Crinkled surface from hard-twist yarn or crepe weave reversals.

September 19, 2026