Cloque weave

A blistered weave with raised cell-like pattern—often double-cloth or warp-float—creating a quilted appearance without stitching, common in evening silk and matelassé-family dress goods.

How to recognize it

Cloque shows raised blister cells on a flat ground—woven relief, not embroidery. Cells are more defined than crinkle and less padded than matelassé.

Similar all-over blisters may be labeled bubble weave. Printed faux quilt lacks woven blister reverse.

Origin and history

Cloque (French "blistered") names raised-cell weave structures in silk and rayon.[1] Commons cloque samples show floral blister grids.[2] Matelassé shares padded quilted appearance in the same textile family.[3]

Lyon and Como mills wove cloque for 1950s cocktail dresses and Chanel-style suits.[1] Double-cloth technique binds two layers so blisters puff between them.[2] Jacquard jacquard looms automate complex cloque figures.[3]

Today cloque weave appears in dresses, jackets, and home textiles in silk, polyester, and cotton.[1][2] Pair cloque skirts with smooth satin blouses.[3] When blister cells are woven raised relief—cloque weave applies.[3]

Where it is used

Cocktail dresses, Chanel-style jackets, evening separates, decorative pillows, and bridal texture.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Keep accessories minimal—cloque surface carries ornament.[2] Tone-on-tone cloque reads sophisticated; contrast cloque reads vintage.[1]

How it differs

Bubble weave is synonymous in trade. Matelassé is heavier quilted. Jacquard may carry cloque figures.[3]

Expression and impression

Cloque reads couture, vintage, and tactile. Ivory cloque reads bridal texture.

Common questions

Cloque vs matelassé? Matelassé is heavier quilted; cloque is blister cell.[3]

Cloque vs bubble weave? Often interchangeable trade terms.[1]

Is cloque stitched? Woven blister—no quilting stitch.[2]

Sources

  1. Cloqué . Wikipedia Blister weave with raised figured areas on a plain or satin ground.
  2. File:Cloque Boylesve.jpg . Wikimedia Commons Cloqué fabric sample showing blistered raised figures; public domain.
  3. Matelassé . Wikipedia Quilted-look weave with padded blister figures, cousin to cloque and bubble weave.

September 19, 2026