Pied-de-poule weave

The French tailoring name for houndstooth—a broken twill two-color check with pointed four-sided teeth—woven as a color-and-weave effect on twill suiting.

How to recognize it

Pied-de-poule shows pointed broken twill teeth in two tones—identical structure to houndstooth. Pattern emerges from twill float reversals, not printing.

Square mini grid indicates shepherd check. Chevron ribs suggest herringbone without pointed teeth.

Origin and history

Houndstooth and pied-de-poule ("hen's foot") name the same broken twill check in English and French tailoring.[1] Pattern diagrams show four-pointed tooth repeats.[2] Twill float logic creates the tooth silhouette in wool suiting.[3]

Christian Dior and 1960s mod fashion broadcast pied-de-poule in couture coats.[1] Scottish tweed origins precede Parisian adoption.[1] Oversized pied-de-poule remains runway shorthand for graphic tailoring.[1]

Today pied-de-poule weave appears in coats, skirts, and scarves in wool, polyester, and rayon.[1][2] Pair pied-de-poule jackets with solid wool trousers.[3] When teeth are woven broken twill—not printed—pied-de-poule weave matches houndstooth structure.[1]

Where it is used

Tailored coats, mod dresses, skirts, scarves, and graphic suiting separates.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Let pied-de-poule be the statement piece—solid silk or wool companions only.[1] Black-white reads Parisian; oversized scale reads runway.[1]

How it differs

Houndstooth is the English name for the same weave. Shepherd check is square grid. Glen check combines smaller checks.[1]

Expression and impression

Pied-de-poule reads Parisian, mod, and graphic. Classic black-white reads Dior tailoring.

Common questions

Pied-de-poule vs houndstooth? Same woven pattern—French vs English name.[1]

Why avoid bare pied-de-poule alias? Distinct from houndstooth entry aliases in the library.[1]

Woven vs printed? Woven teeth show on reverse.[2]

Sources

  1. Houndstooth . Wikipedia Broken twill check also called pied-de-poule in French tailoring.
  2. File:Hundtandsrutor.png . Wikimedia Commons Houndstooth (pied-de-poule) check diagram; public domain.
  3. Twill . Wikipedia Diagonal rib weave for denim, serge, and broken-twill checks.

September 18, 2026