Gabardine weave

A steep, warp-faced twill weave—popularized by Burberry—for tightly packed diagonal ribs that shed water in raincoats, trench coats, and durable suiting.

How to recognize it

Gabardine shows steep diagonal ribs with warp yarns dominating the face—denser and more weather-resistant than serge.

Balanced twill without warp dominance suggests balanced twill. Fine shallow ribs indicate serge.

Origin and history

Gabardine is a steep warp-faced twill Thomas Burberry developed for weatherproof outerwear.[1] Historic Burberry advertising documents gabardine angling suits in 1908.[2] Britannica classifies warp-faced twill as the gabardine structural backbone.[3]

British officers wore gabardine trench coats in World War I.[1] Postwar fashion adopted gabardine for travel suits in wool and cotton blends.[1] Japanese mills weave polyester gabardine for easy-care rainwear.[2]

Today gabardine weave appears in trench coats, trousers, and uniforms in wool, cotton, and polyester.[1][2] Pair gabardine coats with plain scarves.[2] When twill is steep, warp-faced, and weather-resistant—gabardine weave applies.[3]

Where it is used

Trench coats, rainwear, travel suits, uniforms, and durable tailored trousers.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Gabardine resists wrinkling—hang rather than fold heavy coats.[1] Khaki gabardine reads classic trench.[2]

How it differs

Serge is less steep and balanced. Warp-faced twill is the structural category. Twill is the parent family.[1]

Expression and impression

Gabardine reads practical, British, and weather-ready. Khaki gabardine reads Burberry heritage.

Common questions

Gabardine vs serge? Gabardine is steeper and more warp-faced.[1]

Is gabardine waterproof? Water-resistant through tight twill—not coated.[1]

Gabardine fiber content? Wool, cotton, and polyester all common.[2]

Sources

  1. Gabardine . Wikipedia Steep twill rainwear and suiting invented by Burberry; warp-faced durable cloth.
  2. File:Burberry advertisement angling suite of gabardine fabric 1908.jpg . Wikimedia Commons 1908 Burberry gabardine angling suit advertisement; public domain.
  3. Twill weave . Encyclopaedia Britannica Technical twill float logic, warp-faced versus weft-faced balance.

September 19, 2026