Cord weave

A woven structure with parallel raised cords or ribs on the face, created by float groups—classic in marcella piqué waistcoats and corded polo cloth.

How to recognize it

Cord weave shows evenly spaced ribs running lengthwise or crosswise; marcella piqué is stiff with fine cords. The ground remains woven, not knitted.

Welt cord is tubular trim, not an all-over rib cloth. Corduroy is cut pile, not corded floats.

Origin and history

Piqué weaving) produces corded ribs by manipulating floats on plain or twill grounds.[1] Britannica classifies corded structures among figured apparel weaves alongside dobby and jacquard.[2] Eighteenth-century France developed marcella for menswear waistcoats.[1]

British formal dress adopted white marcella cords for waistcoats and bow ties.[1] Woven cord polo cloth competed with knit polos in cotton sportswear.[2] silk cord weaves still serve black-tie accessories.[1]

Today cord weave survives in formal waistcoats, textured shirting, and polo yardage in cotton and polyester.[1][2] Compare waffle cells versus cord ribs under magnification.[1] When ribs are woven floats—not pile wales—cord weave is correct.[2]

Where it is used

Formal waistcoats, bow ties, polo shirts, textured dress shirts, and black-tie accessories.[1]

What is worn now

Editorial styling suggestions from MsDressly—not strict rules.

Wear marcella cord waistcoats with black tie. For polos, woven cord holds shape better than jersey for structured collars.[1]

How it differs

Piqué is the common trade name. Welt cord is trim. Corduroy is cut pile on twill.[1]

Expression and impression

Cord weave reads formal-sport hybrid. Marcella reads black tie; polo cord reads country club.

Common questions

Cord weave vs corduroy? Cord weave uses floats; corduroy is cut pile wales.[1]

What is marcella? Stiff cotton cord piqué for formal menswear.[1]

Cord vs welt cord? Cord is all-over ribs; welt cord is piping trim.[1]

Sources

  1. Piqué (weaving) . Wikipedia Corded waffle weave with raised ribs in polo and formal waistcoat cloth.
  2. Weaving . Encyclopaedia Britannica Loom technology, pile formation, and specialty weave families.
  3. File:Selbstbinder Pikee.jpg . Wikimedia Commons Close-up of piqué corded texture; CC BY-SA 4.0.

September 18, 2026